Lace



L. DINKELSPIEL.

LACE.

APPLICATION HLED 050.10, 1919.

' Patented Sept. 27, 1921 .INVENTOR Lawrence fi/m'e/s o/e/ ATTORNEY till ing at West New York, county of LAWRENCE DINKELSPIEL, OF WEST NEW YORK, NEW JERSEY.

LACE.

ins ore.

To allwhom it may concern: I

Be it known that I, LAW'RENCE'DINKEU sPIEL, a citizen of the United States residl-ludson, and State of New Jersey, have invented a certain new and useful Improved Lace, of which the following is a specification. This invention relates .to an improved form of lace and deals, more particularly, with lace of the type which is manufactured by the running yard, and is used for the adornment of'iemale apparel, e. 9., as collars, cuffs, dress trimmings and for lingerie.

It has long been the practice to manufacture lace by the running yard, and lace thus manufactured invariably embodies a succession of motives of design which are termed i111 the trade repeats. These repeats' form a'continuous strip of lace and are worked directly adjacent one another until the desired length is obtained. They are, moreover, so designed and made that where they join together, the joining forms a part of the design and does not appear as a mere joint. All of these joints, however, as heretofore made are so constituted that the binding stitches which hold them together, in art, if not entirely, extend in the direction engthwise oi the goods, and the whole construction is constituted so as to lie flat and substantially straight when completed.

' Lace made in this manner is entirely satisfactory for use in adorning straight edges of garments such for example as the hence of pettieoats and the like but when it is endeavored to employ such lace on the curved edges of collars and the like it isfound that,

when the attaching edge of the lace is secured to the curved edge. of the garment, the lace wrinkles and assumes an unsightly appearance. Accordingly, it has been the practice in making lace for collars and other portions of garments which present curved or uneven edges to so construct the lace that the tie stitches between the successive repeats or designs may be clipped or out from the outermost edge or the free edge of the lace to substantially the attaching edge of such lace. This allows thelaee to conform, but results in the separation of therespectiverepeats not only producing a rather unsightly shoot but destroying the lace thus cut for subsequent employment in connecac tion with-straight edges.

Specification of Letters Patent. Patented Sept, 27, 1921 Application filed. December 10, 1919. Serial No. 343,822.

It has been the practice of many manufacturers to so constitute or design the respective repeats of the lace that, when it is desired to employ the lace in connection with a curved or uneven edge, the running length of the lace may be cut into Sections and thereafter mitered and sewedtogether so as to give the natural curve desired. This operation, while obviating the wrinkling of the lace as described, occasions considerable labor and moreover unfits the lace for subsequent usein connection with a straight edge.

Withthe foregoing considerations in mind, the object of the present invention consists in the provision of lace by the running yard formed with a succession of relatively nonextensible sections or elements of design consecutively connected to one another-by sec tions formedduring the process of making the lace and embodying binding stitches so disposed as to not interfere with the elasticity or stretching of these binding sections in a direction to the length of the lace.

In one practical embodiment of the inven tion, successive relatively nonextensi ble sections of the strip lace are secured or joined together by working between them binding sections, the binding stitches of which are disposed in angular relation to the direction of length of the strp, and form diamond shaped elements of design which allow of the shaping of the lace to a curve through the elon ation of such diamond shaped elements of esign. In. other words the binding stitches extend in a substantial diagonal direction with reference to the strip and are not disposed in substantially continuous parallel relation to the attaching edge thereof, as heretofore. This is my preferred construction but, in practice, it may be'used in other ways to accomplish. the same results and, accordingly, the invention is not limited to this theoretical form or disposition of stitches.

Features of the invention other than those specified, will be apparent from the hereinafter detailed description taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings.

lin the accompanying drawings, 1 illustrated one practical embodiment of the invention, but the construction therein shown is to be understood as illustrative only, and not as defining the limits of the invention.

s'rn'rss PATENT oF-ncs.

Figure l is a view of the finished lace embodying the present invention as it appears when associated with the straight edge of a garment.

Fig. 2 is a view of the same piece of lace adapted to conform to a curved edge; and

Fig. 3 is a diagrammatic view illustrating the means by which the lace may be adapted to either a straight or curved edge.

In manufacturing lace by the running yard, it is the usual practice, if the lace is to be of cotton, linen or other vegetable fiber, to work it on a fabric of animal matter usually pure silk or wool. This enables the proper displacement of the stitches during manufacture through the working out of the design on a fabric but, at the conclusion of the working of the design and finish of the manufacture of the lace, the whole is subjected to a chemical treatment, usually consisting in its immersion in a bath of caustic soda or other suitable chemical which serves to dissolve the fabric and leave the lace inor other forms of lace employing cotton or other fibers the lace is worked in the silk or animal fabric as described although the invention is not restricted to this method of manufacture as other methods known to the art may be employed. However, for the purpose of illustration, I have shown, and

will proceed to describe the invention as practised in the manufacture of Venice lace.

When manufacturing the lace in this manner, the silk fabric on which the lace is to be 'worked is spanned on a pantograph or automatic shuttle machine of any well known make, the machine is started and the work progresses as well known in the art. However, in the working up of the design for the lace its elements are so constituted that the successive relatively nonextensible sections thereof are joined together by intermediate sections of yieldable or extendible construction.

Referring to the drawings, and more particularly, to Fig. 1 three consecutive repeats are shown, each being designated by the reference character A. As shown in the drawings, each repeat A. embodies a relatively nonextensible portion or section F, and a relatively extensible portion or section B, which collectively constitute one repeat. In practice, where. lace is made by machinery in the running yard, the repeats are usually mere duplications of the same design in successive sequence, and the relatively extensible portion of each repeat serves to bind together two adjacent noneirtensible portions. Each binding section may be worked out in the form of a design or it may be merely a number of stitches grouped together in any conventional manner. In any instance, the

stitches of the sections B are so disposed that such sections are, when completed, yieldable or extendible in a direction longitudinally of the strip of lace. The working of the stitches to bring about this result may be performed in various ways and may partake of many configurations, but in the form of the invention illustrated the intermediate sections constitute a design resulting from the duplication or repetition of circular rings or polka-dots joined together by diamond shaped motives.

In other words, the small circular rings which appear somewhat like rosettes in the finished lace are designated C and a large number of these elements are disposed within the binding sections B and are spaced from one another and from the margins of the adjacent relatively nonextensible sections F bybinding stitches D which, collectively, form a small diamond shape design. This clearly appears from Fig. 3. It will, of course, be understood that the sections B may be otherwise formed but the showing made very clearly brings out the mode of operation of the present invention and what the invention is intended to accomplish.

In practice the relatively nonextensible sections of the repeats A are generally made n'on-extendible in all directions and one edge of the lace is worked to form an unyielding attaching portion E. However, the intermediate or binding portions B by virtue of the construction described are rendered extendible or yieldable in a direction longitudinally of the lace. Thus in Fig. 3, the full line position shown is the normal position of one motive of design of the binding section as shown in Fig. 1, and under this condition the lace will lie straight. However, if the attaching edge E is sewed or otherwise secured to a curved edge each triangular portion of the sections B are free to lengthen out as shown in the dotted line position of Fig. 8, so that the outer edge of the lace may become of greater length than the attaching edge E thereof and thereby allow the lace to lie flat on a curved surr face for the purpose of precluding wrinkling thereof.

As distinguishing the invention from the prior practices, it will be noted in reference to Fig. 3 that if a binding stitch were provided which extended in a straight line directly between the elements C that the lengthening out of the diamond shape portion would be impossible, and it is for this reason that prior laces have not been adapt ed to conform to a curve or to stretch longitudinally as described since all of such prior laces have embodied binding stitches disposed in such manner between the successive repeats that they would not allow of the yielding action described.

in manufacturing the Venice lace after at'the completion of 'the working thereof. the whole is immersed in a chemical solution' which dissolves the animal fiber and leaves the "lace as shown in Fig. 1;. The

lace may be used as shown in this figure or 1 may be adapted to a curved edge as J shown in Fig. 2. In the latter instances if 'from, the curved edge and apply it to the itis subsequently desired to remove the lace straight edge the parts will resume their initial position and the-lace will be in nowise damaged for subsequent use in either en'- vironment.

I find, in practice, that the general shape of the relatively nonextensible sections and binding sections shown in Fig. 1. is highly advantageous, that is to say to make the relatively nonextensible sections tapered generally toward the free edge of the lace and the intermediate or binding sections ta red generally toward the attaching e ge of the lace. This construction gives a strong unyieldable attaching edge and renders the remainder of the lace free to adapt it to either straight or curved edges. However, I in nowise restrict the present invention inthis respect as the relatively.

nonextensible sections may be of any .sha e and the binding sections complementari formed, without; departing from the spirit of this invention which is to be understood as is broadly novel as is commensurate with the appended claims.

Havln thus fully described the invention what I c. aim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

- 1. Strip lace embodying a plurality of contiguous consecutive relatively nonextendible portions positioned in successive sequence, and extendible binding portions binding the relatively nonextendible .portions'together.

' 2. Strip lace embodying a plurality of contiguous consecutive relatively nonextendible portions positioned in successive seuence, and 'oined together 'for a ortion of t e width 0% the strip adjacent the attaching edge thereof in a relatively nonextendible manner, and relatively extendible binding portions forjoining the relativel nonextendible portions together fort e re mainder of the width of the strip.

3. Strip lace embodying a] plurality of consecutive relatively nonextendible sections, and relatively extendible binding sec- .bly

tions positioned in successive sequence, and interposed binding sections embodying binding stitches arranged in angular relation to the edge of the strip whereby said binding sections are rendered relatively extendible in a direction longitudinally of the strip,

s'aid binding sections being interposed be tween successive relatively nonextendible portions for the together.

5. Strip lace embodying alternate relativel extensible and nonextensiblesections, Whic extensible sections extend transversely of the lace, from the outer edge thereof, and are extensible in a direction of the length of the strip for the purpose of allowing the strip to be attached to either a straight or curved edge of a garment.

' 6. As a new article of manufacture, strip lace containing relativelyextensible sections extendin transversely of the lace, from the outer e ge thereof, whereby the strip is adapted to be iven a curved contour with-' purpose of securing them 1 edge with a relatively nonextendible attaching strip, a plurality of consecutive relatively nonextendible portions positioned 1n successive se uence alon the attaching strip, and relative y extendib e bindingportions joinin the bonsecutive relatively nonextendib e portions together.

8. Strip lace provided alongitsattachingedge with a relatively nonextendible attach: ing strip, and embodying a plurality of consecutive relatively nonextendible attaching strip and relatively nonextensijoined together for a portion of the width of the strifp lace, adjacent the attaching edge thereo binding portions for 'oining the consecutive relatively nonextendible portions together ortions positioned 1n successlve sequence a ong the and relatively extendiblefor the remainder of the width of the strip.

9. As a new article of manufacture, strip lace embodying relatively extensible sections, and a relatively nonextensible attaching strip extending along one. edge of the strip lace, whereby the other edge of the lace is adapted to be given either a straight or curved contour without distorting the lace or causing ruflling thereof.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to thiss ecification.

LAW llENC'E DINKELSPIEL. 

